Tuesday 26 February 2019

Siem Reap - Three Temple Day

BIRD OF THE DAY!!! - Forest Wagtail

Today we had our first full day in Cambodia and it was a very full day indeed.

Kicked off at 5am for a 5-30am departure with the aim being sun rise at the famous Angkor Wat. Our timing was good however the cloud cover and perhaps smoke haze from dry season grass fires conspired to rob us of the 'post card memorable scene'. It is pretty fascinating though even without sublime morning light. And it was interesting, too, to see the world's people viewing this wonderful World Heritage Monument.
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From Wikipedia;

One of the first Western visitors to the temple was António da Madalena, a Portuguese friar who visited in 1586 and said that it "is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world. It has towers and decoration and all the refinements which the human genius can conceive of."
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Angkor Wat ("Capital Temple") is a temple complex in Cambodia and one of the largest religious monuments in the world, on a site measuring 162.6 hectares. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century. It was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century in Yaśodharapura (present-day Angkor), the capital of the Khmer Empire, as his state temple and eventual mausoleum. Breaking from the Shaiva tradition of previous kings, Angkor Wat was instead dedicated to Vishnu. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant religious centre since its foundation. The temple is at the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. It has become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag, and it is the country's prime attraction for visitors.
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Angkor Wat is a unique combination of the temple mountain (the standard design for the empire's state temples) and the later plan of concentric galleries. The construction of Angkor Wat also suggests that there was a celestial significance with certain features of the temple. This is observed in the temple's east-west orientation, and lines of sight from terraces within the temple that show specific towers to be at the precise location of the sunrise on a solstice. The temple is a representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods: the central quincunx of towers symbolises the five peaks of the mountain, and the walls and moat symbolise the surrounding mountain ranges and ocean.


The scale of the place is amazing; The outer wall, 1,024 m  by 802 m and 4.5 m high, is surrounded by a 30 m apron of open ground and a moat 190 m wide and over 5 kilometres  in perimeter. Access to the temple is by an earth bank to the east and a sandstone causeway to the west; the latter, the main entrance, is a later addition, possibly replacing a wooden bridge. There are gopuras at each of the cardinal points; the western is by far the largest and has three ruined towers. Glaize notes that this gopura both hides and echoes the form of the temple proper. Under the southern tower is a statue of Vishnu, known as Ta Reach, which may originally have occupied the temple's central shrine. Galleries run between the towers and as far as two further entrances on either side of the gopura often referred to as "elephant gates", as they are large enough to admit those animals. These galleries have square pillars on the outer (west) side and a closed wall on the inner (east) side. The ceiling between the pillars is decorated with lotus rosettes; the west face of the wall with dancing figures; and the east face of the wall with balustered windows, dancing male figures on prancing animals, and devatas, including (south of the entrance) the only one in the temple to be showing her teeth.

The outer wall encloses a space of 820,000 square metres, which besides the temple proper was originally occupied by the city and, to the north of the temple, the royal palace. Most of the area is now covered by forest. 

The temple stands on a terrace raised higher than the city. It is made of three rectangular galleries rising to a central tower, each level higher than the last. Mannikka interprets these galleries as being dedicated to the king, Brahma, the moon, and Vishnu.

Of course we went birding around the temple complex and, it is fair to say, that we did pretty well. The main targets of Forest Wagtail, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, White throated rock thrush and Blue Rock Thrush were all seen pretty well.
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In addition we got good views of Asian Barred Owlet, Asian Brown and Taiga Flycatchers, Black naped Monarch, Linneated & Coppersmith Barbets, Greater Racket tailed, Hair crested and Ashy Drongoes, Hill Mynas, Pale legged Warbler, Shikra - to name a few.

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We then visited Ta Promb – This is the tomb raider temple. The temple is famous for being in beautiful disrepair. The decay provided by the years and the endless growth od surrounding fig trees strangling the temple’s rocks as effectively as they throttle their tree hosts. The roots of the trees wind serpentine along the walls and through them and cascades of roots curtain other of the temple’s former walls. Parrots are noticeable here; Alexandrine and Red chested The latter being the most common and conspicuous.
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From Wikipedia;
Ta Prohm is the modern name of the temple at AngkorSiem Reap ProvinceCambodia, built in the Bayon style largely in the late 12th and early 13th centuries and originally called Rajavihara. Located approximately one kilometre east of Angkor Thom and on the southern edge of the East Baray, it was founded by the KhmerKing Jayavarman VII[as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm is in much the same condition in which it was found: the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's most popular temples with visitors. UNESCO inscribed Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List in 1992. Today, it is one of the most visited complexes in Cambodia’s Angkor region. 
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And then the Bayon Temple, located in the centre of the Angkor Thom.  This depicts, among other things, huge smiling and serene faces and again, these have become symbols of Cambodia. There are also some large carved walls depicting war – Cambodian triumphs over the Vietnamese [southern] and their Chinese allies. As well as everyday scenes of Cambodian life.

From Wikipedia; 
The Bayon (Prasat Bayon) is a richly decorated Khmer temple. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman VII the Bayon stands at the centre of Jayavarman's capital, Angkor Thom. Following Jayavarman's death, it was modified and augmented by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings in accordance with their own religious preferences.

The Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak. The temple has two sets of bas-reliefs, which present a combination of mythological, historical, and mundane scenes.
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Monday 25 February 2019

First Day in Cambodia

BIRD OF THE DAY!!! - Asian Openbill Stork
Today after an early start and an excellent breakfast we had little to do save get to the airport and fly to Siem Reap, Cambodia. After a lengthy wait to access our visas we finally left the airport for the heat of Siem Reap.

We were met by our guide Sophal ;Naran' Chen of the Cambodian Bird Guide Association who whisked us onto out waiting bus for a trip directly to our hotel. 
Naran


A small rest and and a small lunch and we had a small wait for a short drive for some birding on the Tonle Sap flood plains. It proved to be an excellent introductory session for Cambodian birding.
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The bird of the day was a tight contest; largely between the two prominent Stork species. Both Asian Openbill and Painted Storks were present in large numbers. Also of note were Oriental Pratincoles plus a single Greater Painted Snipe. 
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Sunday 24 February 2019

First day on Tour – Singapore


BIRD OF THE DAY!!!! - Oriental Pied Hornbill

Some plans look better on paper. The plan was to arrive in Singapore at 5-20am after an all-night flight, wait for an hour, meet a guide and bus, and then go birding for the next 12 hours.

In the event, that expectation was a little over the top. To be fair it was perhaps made a little worse thanks to the overall efficiency of Singapore Air who got us to Singapore a full 50 minutes early; meaning we had to endure a full two hours of consciousness before beginning our adventure.

And it was made worse by not sleeping much on the flight.

And it was made worse because it was Singapore and it was pretty, freaking hot.

So we finished our day early and were booking in to the hotel before 5pm rather than the 6-30pm that I had originally designed.

Anyway, everything went well. We met everyone and our group of 10 gathered before the bird guide, Lim Kim Seng arrived.

First we went for a little tourist type drive down along the bay where we saw the now famous Garden by the bay with its huge artificial trees. We also could not fail to notice the huge three tower hotel nearby that dwarfed the trees. This was striking because there was a large ship looking structure perched atop the three towers.

The birding was pretty good. We recorded just over 60 species for our first day by visiting three key locations.

Our first stop was Bukit Batok Nature Park, a 36-hectare urban park.  Here we quickly encountered Red Junglefowl, a great flock of the introduced White crested Laughing thrushes plus Slender and Plantain Squirrels. A few spp flew over including Coppersmith Barbet and Long tailed Parakeets. Black naped Orioles showed well as did Pink necked Pigeons, Oriental White-eyes and Bulbuls – both Yellow vented and Olive winged. Another Bulbul was a major target and one that was achieved – the endangered Straw headed Bulbul. This bird is an attractive species who has a striking song. Enroute the Rufous tailed Tailorbird made a brief appearance. And we got good views of Linneated Barbet, Banded Woodpecker and Laced Woodpecker. Pin striped Tit-Babbler was seen by a few. Crested Green Lizards showed well at this site.

gang 'in action'

Red Junglefowl


Black naped Oriole

introduced White crested Laughingthrush
Green Crested Lizard

Plantain Squirrel
Straw headed Bulbul
Laced Woodpecker
Banded Woodpecker
White throated Kingfisher
Olive winged Bulbul
Yellow vented Bulbul

We stopped briefly for some lunch where the theme, strangely was Asian food…

White breasted Waterhen
Next stop was the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, a nature reserve in the northwest area of Singapore. This was the first wetlands reserve to be gazetted in Singapore (2002), and its global importance as a stop-over point for migratory birds was recognised by the inclusion of the reserve into the East Asian Australasian Shorebird Site Network. The reserve, with an area of 130 hectares, was listed as an ASEAN Heritage Park in 2003. WE saw a  small range of migratory waders [Whimbrels, Golden Plovers, Redshank and Common Sandpiper] as well as Milky Stork, Grey Herons, the three main egrets, Brahminy Kite, and a few sunbirds plus good views of Ashy Tailorbird and Arctic Warbler.
Wetland Reserve
Vince of the Mangroves
Stork

juvy Black crowned Night heron
Mudskipper sp

Short nosed Fruitbats

Short nosed Fruitbat
Short nosed Fruitbat

Redshanks
Ashy Tailorbird

Ashy Tailorbird
Pink necked Pigeons

Our final stop was Pasir Ris Park, a beach park located in the eastern part of Singapore. This coastal park opened in 1989 and is among the largest in Singapore. It occupies 70 hectares of land, including some reclaimed land. There is a 6-hectare mangrove forest within the park and the Boardwalks enable visitors to explore the forest. Mud crabs, mudskippers and mangrove trees such as Rhizophora and Bruguiera are found there.
Plaintive Cuckoo

Common Birdlife in the park that we saw included Red Junglefowl, Spotted Dove, Zebra Dove, Pink-necked Pigeon, Asian Koel, Swiftlet sp,  White-breasted Waterhen, Grey Heron, Great Egret, Little Egret, Oriental Pied-Hornbill [our Bird of the DayCollared Kingfisher, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Red-breasted Parakeet, Long-tailed Parakeet, Common Iora, Black-naped Oriole,  House Crow, Large-billed Crow, Barn Swallow, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Arctic Warbler, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Asian Glossy Starling, Common Myna, Javan Myna, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Brown-throated Sunbird, Olive-backed Sunbird and Eurasian Tree Sparrow.
Collared Kingfisher
Asian Brown Flycatcher
poor pic of Blue throated Bee-eaters

Zebra Dove

male Garden Lizard
Group pic; John, Glenis, Allen, Jan [Miss], June, Lilly, Jan, Faye, Kim [our guide] and Vince.