Wednesday 30 January 2019

CAMBODIA BIRDING & NATURE TOUR



Day 1 S [23/02] DEPART AUSTRALIA FOR SINGAPORE          o/n Flight
We will depart Brisbane late Saturday evening for an overnight flight to Singapore

Day 2  S [24/02] FULL DAY BIRDING TRIP TO SINGAPORE     o/n Singapore
We will arrive in Singapore at 5-10am, absurdly early in the morning. And after a strong coffee we will meet our guide at 6-30am for a day’s birding around the city state of Singapore.
Our first stop will be Bukit Batok Nature Park, a 36-hectare urban park in Bukit Batok, Singapore. Key species here include Linneated Barbet, Banded Woodpecker, Laced Woodpecker, Common Flameback, Olive winged Bulbul, Pin striped Tit-Babbler, White crested Laughing thrush. Many of the common Singapore Species with wide distributions will be found here.
Towards midday we will make a stop for some lunch. We will allow our guide to make a selection.
After lunch we will make our way to the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, a nature reserve in the northwest area of Singapore. It is the first wetlands reserve to be gazetted in Singapore (2002), and its global importance as a stop-over point for migratory birds was recognised by the inclusion of the reserve into the East Asian Australasian Shorebird Site Network. The reserve, with an area of 130 hectares, was listed as an ASEAN Heritage Park in 2003.
Key Species here include a range of migratory waders, Milky Stork, bitterns, herons, egrets, Black Baza, Brahminy Kite, White breasted Sea Eagle, Grey headed Fish Eagle, Kingfishers, Bee-eaters, Woodpeckers, Flycatchers, Flowerpeckers and sunbirds.
Our final stop will be Pasir Ris Park, a beach park located in the eastern part of Singapore. This coastal park opened in 1989 and is among the largest in Singapore. It occupies 70 hectares of land, including some reclaimed land. There is a 6-hectare mangrove forest within the park and the Boardwalks enable visitors to explore the forest. Mud crabs, mudskippers and mangrove trees such as Rhizophora and Bruguiera are found there.
Common Birdlife in the park include Red Junglefowl, Spotted Dove, Zebra Dove, Pink-necked Pigeon, Asian Koel, Germain's Swiftlet,  White-breasted Waterhen, Common Sandpiper, Gray Heron, Great Egret, Little Egret, Striated Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Spotted Wood-Owl, Oriental Pied-Hornbill, Common Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher, White-throated Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Coppersmith Barbet, Sunda Woodpecker, Rufous Woodpecker, Common Flameback, Laced Woodpecker, Tanimbar Corella, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Red-breasted Parakeet, Long-tailed Parakeet, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Common Iora, Pied Triller, Mangrove Whistler, Black-naped Oriole, Malaysian Pied-Fantail, House Crow, Large-billed Crow, Barn Swallow, Pacific Swallow, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Arctic Warbler, Common Tailorbird, Ashy Tailorbird, Oriental White-eye, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Asian Glossy Starling, Common Myna, Javan Myna, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Plain-throated Sunbird, Olive-backed Sunbird and Eurasian Tree Sparrow.
About 6pm we will transfer to our to Days Hotel by Wyndham Singapore At Zhongshan Park. Dinner tonight is at own expense.

Our Singapore Bird Guide:  Lim Kim Seng is a licensed (by Singapore Tourism Board) nature tour guide based in Singapore with an MSc in Environmental Management (University of Adelaide). He specialize in birds but is also conversant with other aspects of natural history.
He has authored several books: Vanishing Birds of Singapore (1992), Birds: An Illustrated Field Guide to the Birds of Singapore (1997), illustrated by the famous American bird artist, Dana Gardner, State of Singapore's Wild Bird and Bird Habitats (2009), with his brother, Kim Chuah, The Avifauna of Singapore (2009), and A Field Guide to the Birds of Singapore (2010), a pocket photographic guide with wonderful portraits of birds by the famous bird photographer, Jimmy Chew.

Day 3 M [25/ 02] - ARRIVE SIEM REAP, CHECK IN AND GROUP DINNER
We will need to leave our hotel at 7 so we can get to Changi comfortably for our 10-15am flight to  Siem Reap. We will transfer to our hotel where we will enjoy our first lunch of traditional Khmer cuisine. During lunch we will meet our guide who will accompany us for the next three weeks. We will rest until about 2-30pm when we will take an afternoon birding excursion nearby before returning at dusk.                                                                                                                        o/n Siem Reap.


Day 4 T [26/02] - BIRDNG AND TEMPLES IN ANGKOR GREAT PARK
Our first birding hotspot is the ancient city of Angkor – a World Heritage Site.
Angkor is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Comprising over some 400 km2, including forested area, Angkor Archaeological Park contains the magnificent remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire, from the 9th to the 15th century. They include the famous Temple of Angkor Wat and, the Bayon Temple with its countless sculptural decorations, and Taprohm with combination of trees growing out of the ruins, and other temples.
Angkor Thom (literally Great City), was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire. It was established in the late twelfth century by King Jayavarman VII. It covers an area of 9 km². Angkor Thom was established as the capital of Jayavarman VII's empire, and was the centre of his massive building programme. One inscription found in the city refers to Jayavarman as the groom and the city as his bride.
Prasat Bayon is a well-known and richly decorated Khmer temple at Angkor. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the official state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman VII, the Bayon stands at the centre of Jayavarman's capital, Angkor Thom. Following Jayavarman's death, it was modified and augmented by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings in accordance with their own religious preferences.
Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm has been left in much the same condition in which it was found: the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's most popular temples with visitors. Beside temple, you can explore some bird species such as White- throated Rock-thrush, Black-capped Kingfisher, Black Baza, Alexandrine and Read-breasted parakeet, Hainan Blue and Taiga Flycatchers.
Overnight at hotel in Siem Reap.

Day 5 W [27/02] - PREK TOAL BIRD RESERVE AND THE TONLE SAP GREAT LAKE FLOATING VILLAGES
Prek Toal is unmatched in South East Asia for the number and population of endangered water birds it supports during the dry season. Large numbers of cormorants, storks and pelicans are virtually guaranteed from January to May along with herons, egrets and terns.
The sanctuary harbors seven species of global conservation significance: Spot-billed Pelican, Milky and Painted Storks, Lesser Adjutant, Greater Adjutant, Black-headed Ibis and Oriental Darter and has a globally significant population of Grey-headed Fish Eagle. Since the Core Reserve was declared in 2002 and came under the protection of Ministry of Environment as advised by WCS, the numbers of all the above species have increased dramatically.                                                                                   Overnight in Siem Reap.

Day 6 T [28/02] - ANG TRAPAENG THMOR SARUS CRANE RESERVE (ATT)
Ang Trapeang Thmor is a world famous Sarus Crane reserve, over 300 of these magnificent birds congregate to feed in the dry season along with another 198 recorded bird species, 18 of which are globally threatened. By February the dry season will be well underway and a few pairs of Black-necked Storks frequent the site along with many of the large water birds seen at Prek Toal; Black-headed Ibis, Milky and Painted Storks, Spot-billed Pelican, Oriental Darter Asian Openbill and Greater and Lesser Adjutants.
A few pairs of Bengal Floricans breed here during the dry months though they are wary and may be a rare treat. Other grassland specialists including Red Avadavat, Blue-breasted Quail, and 3 species of lark occurring in Cambodia. Six species of duck, 4 of which are resident including Comb Duck, can be seen along with birds of prey, rare in the rest of the country, such as Black Kite, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers. Numerous waders, rails and shore birds can be found in the marshy belts of aquatic habitat. Herds of the Critically Endangered Eld’s Deer can be seen from February to the start of the rains in May on most visits to the site.
Overnight in Siem Reap.

Day 7 and 8 F & S [01 & 02/03]  CHANGKRAN ROY
From Siem Reap we will make a two hour drive north west to the last remaining evergreen forest in this area. This area, Changkran Roy, is protected by the local community and therefore some good birds!
Ecotourism in Changkran Roy is run by local people from the local village. Our camping arrangements, food and guiding will be provided by them. As you are led along the forest paths, animals, butterflies and birds will be identified. The native trees, flowers and plants will be described and we can expect some insight into their traditional local usage in medicine and food.
We will stay one night in Changkran Roy and on the second day we will return to Siem Reap.

Day 9  S  [03/03] -  AM – BENGAL FLORICAN CONSERVATION AREA; PM -BIRDING TO TMATBOEY, OVERNIGHT TMATBOEY LODGE (WINNER OF THE WILD ASIA RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARD)
Our day’s journey will start as early as 5.30am from Siem Reap and after a 2-hour drive we will arrive at the Florican Grassland where we will spend a couple hours looking for the critically endangered Bengal Florican and other grassland species.
This so-called Bengal Florican Conservation Areas (BFCAs) is the great inundated grassland which is protected and managed for biodiversity conservation and sustainable use by local communities. The conservation areas mainly contain grassland dominant landscapes, which are now extremely rare in South-East Asia and which have been disappearing rapidly in Cambodia in recent years. The target species at this site are Bengal Florican, the rare wintering Manchurian Reed-warbler, Raptors including Greater Spotted Eagle and Imperial Eagle, Pied Harrier and Eastern Marsh- harrier, Siberian Ruby Throat, and Small Buttonquail.
After visiting the Florican grasslands the group will travel toward Tmatbeoy village passing Beng Melea and Koh Ker temples (if time allows we will break the journey with some birding at these temples). The group will have lunch en route near Koh Ker before arriving Tmatboey Eco-lodge around 3pm in time for the first afternoon birding near the lodge with a short- walk through the open forest to where the White-shouldered Ibis come to roost at sunset.
Tmatboey is a remote village of 314 families situated in the Northern Plains of Cambodia, within the Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctuary. Tmatbeoy is the most significant ground for the two critically endangered Ibis; Giant and White- shouldered. The conservation project was set up by the Cambodian Government (ministry of environment), conservation NGOs and Tmatboey village. Tmatboey is one of only two known nesting sites for Giant Ibis, which use large trees in the forest away from the village. We can expect to see them at their roost trees or foraging at seasonal pools. White-shouldered Ibis are found closer to the village where they are reliant on the grassland clearings amongst the dipteropcarp forest. Daily sightings are virtually guaranteed. Woolly-necked Stork is relatively common and can be seen in flocks of over 40. Indian Spotted Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle and White-rumped Falcon occur at low densities. The Pale-capped Pigeon is another highlight along with an amazing diversity of woodpeckers. Our local guides have made a special effort to find owls on their night roosts, allowing comfortable daytime viewing of Brown Fish Owl, Spotted Wood Owl and Brown Wood Owl. Night walks regularly yield Collared and Oriental Scops Owl.
The accommodation at Tmatboey is basic but comfortable. The Lodge is comprised of a central recreational building and 5 surrounding bungalows each with 2 twin en-suite rooms with solar powered electricity.
The group can discuss with the CBGA guide how they wish to spend the day outside the sunrise and sunset birding. Packed lunches can be arranged if they want to spend more time in the forest and night drives / walks can spot the owls and Savannah Night Jar. The village of Tmatboey is remote and self-sufficient. CBGA organises an optional village tour,

Day 10 M [4/03] - FULL DAYS BIRDING AT TMATBOEY
In the morning the group will leave the lodge very early, around 4 or 4;30 a.m., with a quick cup of tea or coffee, and packed breakfast then a drive and a walk to less disturbed areas of forest where Giant Ibis have been located. We return back to the Lodge around noon for lunch and nap before we continue for another afternoon birding.
Tmatbeoy also supports other target species such as Woolly-necked Stork, Indian Spotted Eagle, Grey- headed Fish Eagle and White-rumped Falcon. The Pale-capped Pigeon is another highlight along with an amazing diversity of woodpeckers. Our local guides have made a special effort to find owls on their night roosts, allowing  comfortable daytime viewing of Brown Fish Owl, Spotted Wood Owl and Brown Wood Owl. Within this 2night birding trip at Tmatboey, you will have enough time to see all the species at Tmatboey at no rush. We will spend whole days birdwatching in the Deciduous Dipterocarp forest to see other birds including the target species above. We will also stay late in the forest until dark for Nightjar (Sovanna and Large-tailed) and Owl (Oriental Scops Owl and Barn Owl). Head light and torch are recommended to take along with you.

Days 11 / 12 T W  [05 & 06/03] - TRANSFER TO OKOKI FOR WHITE WINGED DUCK. OVERNIGHT OKOKI
After some final morning birding around Tmatbeoy the group will head toward Okoki passing Dongplet village; the community that will provide the our services at the Okoki site. We will arrive at Okoki for a two night stay around noon time. We will enjoy some birding around the camp site; especially waiting in the hide near the feeding pond for the duck.
Okoki is in Chhep Wildlife Sanctuary, where pools are dotted in a line of mixed evergreen  forest  which itself follows  a  water  course, providing habitat for White-winged Duck. This is one of the most pristine parts of Cambodia – its limited population gives us the possibility of seeing mammals. Gaur are sometimes seen and Asian elephants are a remote possibility. Pileated Gibbon are regularly heard and occasionally seen and there are signs of Banteng, Sambar, Wild pig, Red Muntjac, Long-tailed Macaque, Fishing Cat and Asian Jackal.
Overnight camping with Safari style tents are set up among the tall trees with shady location provide a comfortable night. A service team will travel with the group from the village.
We will rise early to walk through the forest to arrive predawn at hides constructed next to the pools favored by the duck. Bird watching throughout the day could produce a plethora of dry-forest specialists including Green Peafowl and White-rumped Pygmy-falcon. In the gallery forest we can find a different suite of birds including Bar-bellied Pitta, Banded Broadbill and Banded Kingfisher. On our night walks we are likely to encounter Oriental Bay Owl and Blyth’s Frogmouth.

13 -     T [ 07/03] AM – OKOKI, TRANSFER TO THE VULTURE RESTAURANT AT BOENG TOAL
In the late morning we leave from Okoki to Beong Toal (vulture restaurant) arriving late afternoon then enjoy bird watching around the camp site especially Woodpeckers and Vultures.
The Vulture Restaurant is a feeding program set up the government of Cambodia and conservation NGOs to help sustain the 3 critically endangered species of vulture: Red-headed, White-rumped and Slender-billed Vultures. The world’s populations of these vultures have suffered from Diclofenac poisoning which has caused a drastic decline in their numbers. In Cambodia cattle are not given this drug; however the lack of food is a problem for the vultures.
Safari style tents will be set up for the night at Boeng Toal camp by the Dong Plat ecotourism community.
Overnight at Boeng Toal.

14 - F [ 08/03] AM – BIRDING AT VULTURE RESTAURANT. PM – TRANSFER TO KRATIE
The Vulture Restaurant is a feeding program set up by WCS, and supported by SVC ecotourism to help sustain the 3 critically endangered species of vulture: Red-headed, White-rumped and Slender-billed Vultures. The world’s population of these vultures have suffered from Diclofenac poisoning which has caused a drastic decline in their numbers. In Cambodia cattle are not given this drug, however the lack of food is a problem for the vultures.
For some, this the highlight of the whole itinerary: before dawn the group will make their way to a hide positioned not far from the vulture restaurant. Up to 70 vultures maybe present, often competing for the carcass with Golden Jackal.
In the late morning we leave from Boeng Toal to Kratie arriving late afternoon. We will stop at a small marsh near Kratie, where we should see large numbers of weavers including Asian Golden and Streaked Weaver and other wetland birds.
Overnight at hotel in Kratie. The hotel is clean with en-suite hot showers, airconditioning and good Khmer food.

15 – S [09/03] - AM – BIRDING KRATIE, PM – TRANSFER TO SEIMA
In the early morning we will board a boat on the Mekong River, looking for the Mekong Wagtail, which is restricted to channel island habitats; we will also enjoy the pod of Irrawaddy Dolphins that frequent this part of the river. After breakfast we will drive two and a half hours on to Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary.

16 / 17 – S M [10 & 11/03] SEIMA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY & DAK DAM
We will have two full days and two half days to experience the birds and mammals of this spectacular forest. Top of most birders wish lists is the Orange-necked Partridge, a species which went missing for much of the last century, only to be rediscovered in the 1990s. We have a moderate success rate with this species but there are many other spectacular species to keep our interest during our time here, including Green Peafowl, Germain’s Peacock Pheasant, Red-vented Barbet, Scaly-breasted Partridge and Pale-headed Woodpecker, all of which have been seen on the trails close to the WCS station.

Cambodia may be the best place in the world for woodpeckers. The largest woodpecker in the world, the Great Slaty can be seen at forested sites throughout the trip and is particularly easy to see in Seima. We’ll also aim to see White-bellied, Laced, Heart-spotted and Black-and-buff Woodpeckers here. We’ll make a special effort to seek out fruiting trees because these often hold in Hill and Golden-crested Myna as well as a range of barbets, pigeons and hornbills.
Seima is home to the largest population of Black-shanked Douc Langur in the world, along with Northern Pig-tailed and Long-tailed Macaque and Yellow-cheeked Crested Gibbon, all of which are regularly seen on our tours. Very lucky visitors have seen Gaur close to the headquarters. If we take a night drive there is the possibility of more mammals including Common-palm and Small-toothed Civets, Giant Flying Squirrel, Lesser Mouse-Deer and Pygmy Loris. Spot-bellied Eagle Owl has also been seen here.

We will also visit Dak Dam. Dak Dam is located in the Southeastern corner of Cambodia on the Sen Monorom plateau. Elevations of over 800 meters can be reached here. Much of the forest has been lost here, but remnants here have produced a number of montane species associated with the Annamite Mountains of Vietnam. A number of new Cambodian records have come from this region.
Birds of interest include: Bar-backed Partridge, Black Eagle, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, Pale-capped Pigeon, Long-tailed Broadbill, Black and Ashy Bulbuls, Silver-eared Mesia, Blue-winged Siva, Black-headed Parrotbill, Black-chinned Yuhina, White-cheeked and Black-throated Laughingthrush, Black-throated Sunbird, Black-browed Fulvetta.
Dak Dam area provides the adventure of discovering the unexpected and possibly something new for the Cambodian list.
Overnight at hotel in Sen Monorom.

18 T [12/03] - TRANSFER TO KAMPOT, ENROUTE STOP AT CAMBODIA TAILORBIRD SITE
After the last morning of birding at Seima we will begin the nine-hour trip to Kampot, where Bokor National Park is located.

We will make a stop along the way to locate the newly discovered species of Cambodian Tailorbird (Orthotomus chaktomuk), which was described to science by WCS. This species is only found in the floodplain wetlands where the mighty Mekong River meets the Tonle Sap and Bassac Rivers. This area is also excellent for open-country species such as Plain-backed Sparrow and we often see large waterbirds such as Oriental Darter and Painted Stork. In the scrub in which the tailorbird is found, we should also see a range of winter visitors, such as Black-browed Reed-warbler, Brown Shrike and Siberian Rubythroat.
Overnight at hotel in Kampot, our base for two nights, arriving late evening in this small town to get ready for the cloudy and chilly mountain of Bokor the next day.

19 – 20 W T [13 & 14 / 03] - SIT BOKOR NATIONAL PARK
Bokor National Park was an historic hill station situated at 1,081 meters above sea level with jungle, a waterfall (Popokvil), rivers, and ruins. It is located at the southern tip of the Elephant Mountains near the Vietnam border. Though the part is now being developed as a major tourist destination, the bird species can still be found, surprisingly undisturbed, so far.
As we ascend through the evergreen forest to Bokor we will start to notice species not found in other parts of the country, and by the time we reach the top of the escarpment we will be in refreshingly cool, stunted montane forest, a welcome relief from the steamy-hot lowlands we have left behind.
Our key bird targets at Bokor are the near-endemic Chestnut-headed Partridge and Silver Broadbill, Long-tailed Broadbill, Indochinese Green Magpie, Great Hornbill, Wreathed Hornbill,  and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon. Over 60 bird species have been recorded here.
Packed lunches will be brought from Kampot Town.                               Overnight at hotel in Kampot.


21 F [15/03] – VISIT THE SALTPANS NEAR KAMPOT; PM TO PHNOM PENH
On our last day morning we will visit the saltpans where we hope to find some shorebirds to add to our list. A trip to this area in 2013 produced Nordman’s Greenshank and a host of other waders such as Whimbrel, Sandpipers, Little-ringed Plover and Red-necked Phalarope.
After that we will transfer to Phnom Penh for a little sight seeing and souvenir shopping.

22 S [16/03] – PHNOM PENH SIGHT SEEING
After breakfast at the hotel, the group can visit the Royal Palace. Lunch in the city and continue the tour with the visit Boeng Chueng Ek killing field and Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S21). And then we will transfer you to the airport AT 4pm for the departure of our 6-25pm flight back home.


Saturday 12 January 2019

Hill Tribe Trek


For the last two days we had a two day Hill Tribe Trek. For Tom it was probably the highlight of the trip for we did more than just the trek.

Day 1 involved a quick visit to a butterfly farm where we scoffed a quick coffee as well.


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Our second stop was a very touristy visit to a Karen village; more of a open market of Karen folks with their handicrafts. It was interesting to see them with their traditional finery and ornaments and especially the long neck deal.


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From Wikipedia; The Kayan are a sub-group of Red Karen (Karenni people), Tibeto-Burman ethnic minority of Myanmar (Burma). The Kayan consists of the following groups: Kayan Lahwi (also called Padaung), Kayan Ka Khaung (Gekho), Kayan Lahta, Kayan Ka Ngan. Kayan Gebar, Kayan Kakhi and, sometimes, Bwe people (Kayaw).

Padaung (Yan Pa Doung) is a Shan term for the Kayan Lahwi (the group in which women wear the brass neck coils). The Kayan residents in Mae Hong Son Province in Northern Thailand refer to themselves as Kayan and object to being called Padaung. In The Hardy Padaungs (1967) Khin Maung Nyunt, one of the first authors to use the term "Kayan", says that the Padaung prefer to be called Kayan. On the other hand, Pascal Khoo Thwe calls his people Padaung in his 2002 memoir, From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey. 

In the late 1980s and early 1990s due to conflict with the military regime in Myanmar, many Kayan tribes fled to the Thai border area.[3] Among the refugee camps set up there was a Long Neck section, which became a tourist site, self-sufficient on tourist revenue and not needing financial assistance.

Kayan number about 40,000 in Shan State (around the Pekon Township area) and 20,000 in Kayah State (around Demawso and Loikaw). A 2004 estimate puts the population at approximately 130,000.  About 600 Kayan reside in the three villages open to tourists in Mae Hong Sorn, or in the Ban Mai Nai Soy refugee camp.

Next on our agenda was an elephant training camp. Here was an opportunity to feed and ride elephants. Everyone inour group was seemingly against the riding however most waded into the river with them and assisted in bathing them. The elephants returned the favour by spraying water over us.

Elephant camp area

Tom feeding elephant sugar cane. One of the female elepahnts was of the age that her teeth had decayed so badly that she couldn't chew sugar cane any longer and was fed a diet of bananas. Not sure if the sugar cane diet has any correlation with teeth decay..
Me and elephant -that is me on the right.

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Next we had some lunch where our group of four headed off on our overnight trek. We were joined by Addy and Jason from the Midlands in the UK who proved to be good company.




The above photos are enroute to lunch - it remains surreal to stroll past elephants...

Agricultural scenery prior to 'jungle trekking'. Our walk was quite the climb up hill as the description Hill tribe trek should have warned. It was hot and humid and the walk was steep in places. Birding was impossible; to pause was to be left behind.



Work place health and safety is not the issue in Thailand as it is elsewhere....





















Wednesday 9 January 2019

Cross gets Angry in Northern Thailand


Our trip started poorly and looks like it will finish in similar fashion thanks to the incompetence of some travel companies. Below is a very quick description of our how our trip started;

“We got to Thailand a little later than we originally anticipated due to me booking with the worst travel agent in the world; the ironically named Bestjet. Avoid them like the plague. Our problem was that Thai airways changed their schedule some 6 weeks before we flew and we were never informed of such changes so we arrived for a flight that no longer existed.
Bloody hassle because i did not understand what could have happened. Bestjet was unobtaianable. The Thai offices were empty and locked... Cancelled the first Thai accommodation. And then found out that we had been re-booked for the flight on Sunday....”

Now the end of the trip and Bestjet* changes and no advice is the gift that keeps on giving. I made flight arrangements from Chiang Mai to Bangkok initially taking into account our original flight schedule. We are flying from the north to BKK on the evening of the 14th January and then spending a night  in a cheap airport hotel. We were then to fly about midday on the 15th; so breakfast, transfer to the airport and then fly. 

* Since starting this trip i have discovered that very recently this company has gone bankrupt and tales of their incompetence and dishonesty have been made public. While i feel sorry for myself and my poor experience with them, I acknowledge that i have got off comparatively lightly compared with some who have lost sizeable sums of money and their [dream] holidays. At any rate it is good riddance to bad rubbish!!

Now those bookings were made on the original information – now we fly back to Oz just after midnight on the morning of the 16th. A full day hanging around near the airport with nothing to do except watch planes and listen as they fly by. Had we have known about our schedule could have made a few changes to our itinerary so we do not have to waste so much fricking time….

So today bad karma continues….

I had organised a birding day trip to Doi Inthanon National Park from Chiang Mai with a birding company ‘Chiang Mai Birding’. Our hotel name, address and phone number were supplied to the company.  Pick up at 5-30am. Done.

So we’re up at 5. On the street outside at 5-20am. 
On the street at 6 am. 
On the street at 6-20 am. 
Back in our rooms at 6-30am.

I write the guide an email as follows, ‘Hello Uthai, We have been waiting outside our hotel on the main road now for over an hour and we have just returned to our room. The pick up was 5-30am as you wrote?’

He replies, ‘I was there  at 0520not see you
Not call me I have you phone number
Uthai
0815305654’

He then emails me a picture of a different hotel but with the same name as ‘proof’!? The email has no text.

He then emails again with a simple message, ‘The hotel phone no one reply’. Which we can translate simply to mean that while I was standing on the road he rang our hotel and it seems that we do not have 24 hour reception…

He sends a fourth email with the entire message, ‘Very sorry...’

Very optimistically he send a fifth email at nearly 9-30 in the morning, ‘Hello
If you still want to do Doiinthanon can do stir birds and visit National park
Reply now
Uthai’.

It is an hour and a half drive to Doi Inthanon so we would be talking about arriving for a birding trip in the tropics just before midday…He mentions nothing of the cost. He mentions nothing really in the way of the opportunity lost. I was bloody angry at this stage and did not feel like giving him a bloody cent. Also because I am pretty rarely in northern Thailand [first time for some 20 years] and his lack of attention to detail and incompetence has cost me this one opportunity I had. Looking at his web page some clients do say some nice things about him. It is a pity then that my experience has been a total fuck up and my opportunity has been thoroughly lost…

So poor plan B I decided to hire a Songthaew and go for a drive to Doi Suthep. Sadly, I got the worst driver in Thailand who seemed intent either to destroy his gear box, wear his brakes out, have a crash, kill someone or all of the above. We arrived at the hill top temple well after peak birding time at after 10am. Believe me when I say we did not beat the crowds. Temple crowds at a Buddhist Temple did not help my karma or me get calmer for that matter - they are noisy, they ring bells loudly for no good reason. And, childishly perhaps I was still pissed off. The birds were limited although I did get a couple of views of common species but there was nothing too interesting and at 1pm I decided to pack it in and return to Chiang Mai.

So that was the second day in Chiang Mai wasted…The first I cannot complain too much about as Tom was a little crook and needed to stay close to the room [are you with me?]  And to add more injuries - Tom's phone has committed suicide.

And now some bird pics from Doi Suthep.
Hill Blue Flycatcher - male

Hill Blue Flycatcher - male

Ashy Woodswallows - kind of like our White breasted Woodswallows - if they had been sleeping rough for about a week
Common Tailorbird
Velvet fronted Nuthatch

Velvet fronted Nuthatch
Grey eyed Bulbul
Sooty headed Bulbul [ red vented klossi ssp]
Red whiskered Bulbul
A Chinese Francolin trapped in a very small cage in view of our lunch table - maybe kama releases should be considered.
And finally one of the meal options we rejected at lunch time..

Sunday 6 January 2019

SIEM REAP - MERIT RELEASE CONTINUES

Some of the dead swept into a corner
In the middle of Siem Reap I was distressed to see very clear evidence of the continuing practice of merit release of birds and other animals by some well meaning but naive Buddhists.

According to a news story published in the Phnom Penh Post in 2015 that set out to highlight the problem they asked a local Siem Reap monk about the issue.

The purpose of releasing the birds was to “give life to the other being, and by giving life to make merit”, said Somnieng Hoeurn, former deputy head monk at Siem Reap’s Wat Damnak.

“Giving life is the best gift you can give,” he said. “But it also symbolises forgiveness and cleaning sin from previous actions. People wish or pray when they release the animals to cleanse their sins and to ask for forgiveness.” 

However, the ancient principle of merit seeking has turned into a thriving trade in capturing and selling wild animals for ceremonial release. It has taken root across Asia with devastating consequences for the animals involved. 

Hoeurn acknowledged the potential harm. “It’s very hard,” he said. “We need to raise awareness that other beings have the right to live happily and freely, not just from the religious perspective but also from the scientific and political perspective. Every life is equal.”
Market stall outside the temple
juvenile finches - some near death
Swallows and Swifts crammed into cages
Swifts
Red rumped Swallows
more swifts and swallows
even turtles were available for purchase and release.

The three year old article explained the animal rights issues involved with the practice; that is they were clearly being held in less than appropriate conditions. We saw clear evidence of this, including a pile of dead birds both within and without the cages. Some studies have suggested that the majority of birds released die within the first day or so.

In addition to the needless suffering and death of the caged birds there are the ecological problem caused by removing so many useful species from their natural habitats. For example swifts and swallows, insectivorous species, obviously are useful to a country reliant on agricultural production.

The merit release encourages wildlife trade, teaches Buddhists not respect of life but merely that wildlife are commodities to be bought and sold.

Again from the article; Daniel Roper-Jones, director of conservation education organisation Fauna in Focus, said, “The biggest problem that I see with the trafficking of merit birds is that conservation organisations do not yet have the authority to stop the practice.” 

He is working on campaigns to help build public awareness and support within schools, communities and pagodas. 

“If these awareness campaigns are successful, I hope it will build enough public support, especially among​ local monk leaders, to petition the Department of Cult and Religion to condemn the practice. ​

“If they do, conservation organisations working to protect wildlife will get the permissions they need to shut these ​activities down permanently.”

Sadly if my 2018 experience is anything to go by Conservation organisations in Cambodia still have a long way to go to make merit release history.